MUMBAI

Historically a fishing village, Mumbai's growth into a metropolis was marked by the arrival of communities such as the Parsis, Gujaratis, Goans, and South Indians, each bringing their distinct culinary practices and ingredients. These influences are evident in the city’s broad food culture, which ranges from the street-side vada pav to the Parsi dish Dhansak. Mumbai's food culture today is as diverse as its population!

Historically, home-cooked meals were the norm in Mumbai, with Maharashtrian cuisine forming the base. Traditional dishes like sabudana khichdi, pithla bhakri, zunka bhakar, and thalipeeth were staples, often centered around grains like rice and millets. However, due to the fast pace of life in Mumbai people have little time for personal activities. Today, Mumbai city is still known for its intense appreciation for food, with street food being a defining feature. The rise of fast food and modern eateries has led to a shift away from traditional home-cooked meals, with many opting for convenience and variety over traditional dishes. Cooking was traditionally the domain of women, with men helping out with minor tasks such as slicing onions and tomatoes when they were at home. However, many families nowadays opt to hire cooks or rely on tiffin services for their meals because both spouses typically work outside the home. Working women often reserve their days off to prepare meals themselves. Nevertheless, growing health concerns have influenced food choices. The use of oil and sugar in home cooking has decreased, with healthier alternatives like chapatis replacing puris.

The majority of Muslims, Parsis, Kolis, Christians, and Maharashtrians are not strict vegetarians. However, some Hindus follow specific religious rituals and eat vegetarian meals on certain days, such as Mondays, Tuesdays, and Thursdays. Serving guests on vegetarian days, the meal typically includes dishes like paneer masala, shrikhand puri, varan bhaat, chapati, vatana usal, papad, and pickle. On other days, when non-vegetarian food is served, the meal may consist of fish or chicken, along with vade, sol kadi, koshimbir, and rice. Some South Indian populations, particularly Brahmins, follow a strictly vegetarian diet. Although the majority of Gujaratis and Marwaris are vegetarians, some members of these communities do occasionally eat non-vegetarian food. Jains are known for their stringent dietary laws and for not eating meat and root vegetables. While they generally adhere to vegetarian ideals, some Jains in Mumbai may adopt a less stringent diet, possibly including potatoes and onions in their meals.

The timing of meals in Mumbai is generally consistent, especially for working professionals. However, the eating habits and preferences vary across different meals and snacks. People usually eat breakfast during the morning hours, with popular options including poha, misal pav, vada pav, idli, and even pancakes.

Lunch can be anywhere between midday and early afternoon, with options including dal-rice, roti-sabzi, and other traditional dishes. Most individuals carry a nutritious lunch or rely on the popular Mumbai Dabbawalas, who deliver homemade meals to offices. For those who prefer to eat outside, quick options include streetside dosa, veggie sandwiches, pav bhaji, and chole bhature.

During a long day at work, professionals tend to take a break with a steaming cup of chai served around the office or visit a local chai tapri. Also, snacks like bhel puri, pani puri, vada, kachoris, and golgappas are popular street food choices. For dinner, during the evening hours, common options include biryani, tandoori chicken, seafood, veggie thali, and dosa. Post-dinner, preferences vary greatly among individuals for post-meal digestives, ranging from saunf, hajmola, imli, dhaniya daal (coriander seeds) to churans or green tea. However, one unique item that stands out is avala supari. This supari is available in stores for a nominal price, typically around 2 rupees for a small pouch containing 7-8 pieces. Additionally, it can also be prepared at home by marinating and dehydrating avalas (Indian gooseberries).

The amount of spice in food varies depending on the community. Spice levels are customisable even at eateries and street food vendors. Nonetheless, the majority of city dwellers like their meals moderately spiced.

Mumbai's history as a major port city is reflected in its historical food trade. Fish and seafood, including pomfret, crabs, prawns, and Bombay Duck (which comes from the word "daak" or Bombay fish), were a mainstay of local markets. Additionally, the presence of cashew trees suggests that cashews may have also been traded locally.

While Mumbai remains a metropolitan area with limited space for large-scale agriculture, there's a growing interest in urban farming initiatives. Rooftop gardens and vertical farming are gaining traction as ways to cultivate fruits, vegetables, and herbs within the city limits. However, Mumbai still relies heavily on imported produce to meet its food demands. To satisfy the wide range of dietary tastes of its citizens, the city's markets carry imported and non-local products in addition to local produce. Furthermore, exotic fruits like avocados, rambutan, etc. are available and frequently imported.

The staple grain used at home in Mumbai, like in many parts of India, is rice. Rice is a versatile grain that forms the base of many traditional dishes and is a dietary staple for a large portion of the population. Throughout the year, the type of rice consumed may vary based on seasonal availability and personal preferences. During the monsoon season, which typically lasts from June to September, certain varieties of rice, such as basmati or long-grain rice, are commonly preferred for their ability to cook into fluffy, separate grains despite the humidity. These varieties are less prone to becoming sticky or mushy, which can be a concern during the rainy season when moisture levels are high. In contrast, during the drier months, from October to May, people may opt for other types of rice, including short-grain varieties like sona masoori or kolam, which have a stickier texture and are well-suited for dishes like biryani or pulao. Over the years, there has been a shift in the types of rice consumed, influenced by factors such as changing agricultural practices, availability of different varieties, and evolving dietary preferences. While traditional varieties like basmati and sona masoori remain popular, there has been a growing interest in organic and heirloom rice varieties, driven by concerns about health, sustainability, and preserving culinary heritage.

In the city, one can find a variety of snacks such as chivda, bhakarwadi, kachori, papdi, Tikha Ghatiya, and Bhujia. Large corporations like Haldiram as well as independent retailers manufacture these snacks.

In Mumbai, pickles are a staple condiment with various flavors. Raw mango pickle, known as kairi pickle, is a local favorite. Other popular options include lemon, chili, seafood, and haldi pickles. Small-scale pickle and papad businesses, often run by women, contribute to the local economy.

For new-born babies, among Maharashtrians, nachni satva, which is sprouted ragi malt, is the popular choice. Either that or rice-based porridge is given to the baby. Across communities in Mumbai, while baby foods may have different names, the base ingredients remain the same, which is generally a mixture of rice and milk with mashed potatoes, fruits, or lentils.

School lunches vary across different stages of education. In primary school, parents often pack lunches with foods like sandwiches, parathas, veg rolls, and snacks like namkeen. As children progress to secondary school, parents tend to opt for simpler and healthier options like sabzi and chapati in their tiffin boxes. Tiffin boxes predominantly contain vegetarian food, as there's a perception that non-vegetarian meals might be heavier and could make children feel drowsy in class, with some schools even having rules against bringing meat in tiffins. Children from households with working parents often rely on school canteens for their meals, with government schools offering mid-day meals and most other schools having pay-per-meal canteen facilities with varying menus.

Food and celebration go hand in hand. Most festivals have specific dishes that are made based on the seasonal specials. An assortment of sweet and savory snacks is prepared during Diwali called faral. These snacks include chakli, besan ladoo, rava ladoo, karanji, nankhatai, shev, balushahi, shankarpali, etc. Ladoos and wadis are made from til and jaggery for Makarsankrant. The festivities of Gudi Padwa begin with chewing neem leaves with jaggery, which is considered both healthy and auspicious. Puran poli is popularly made for both Holi and Gudi Padwa. During Holi, it is a tradition to drink thandai and eat jalebi. During religious events, such as on a day when Satyanarayan Puja is being performed, prasad is prepared with sheera and tirth. Sabudana and potato-based meals are cooked during fasting periods.

Mumbai has certain seasonal specialties that are much awaited as soon as seasons change. Aamras puri, typically prepared in the hot summer months, is a delicacy made with fresh seasonal mangoes blended into Aamras served chilled with piping hot puris. Kokam sarbat and usacha ras (sugarcane juice) are popular beverages during the summer. Ukadiche modak and puran poli are typically prepared during festive times. Bhoplyachi bhaji (pumpkin bhaji) is a common part of meals during the monsoon season due to the ready availability of fresh pumpkins.

Traditionally, the menu selection at a Marathi wedding consisted of basic items like shrikhand puri, batata, dal bhat, papad, loncha, vatana usal, etc. All other communities too had their unique menus. However, the distinctions between the culinary traditions of various groups have become much more hazy with the rising trend of wedding businesses. Nowadays, Mumbai weddings cater to a wide range of dietary preferences, drawing inspiration from modern styles and international food in addition to traditional delicacies. Modern wedding menus may include a combination of North Indian and Western cuisines in addition to traditionally mandated dishes. A typical vegetarian menu would consist of spring rolls, samosas, manchurian and a variety of chaat for starters. Common main course items are paneer, mixed veg sabzi, roti, jeera rice, biryani/pulao, and noodles. On the side, there is an assortment of papads/fryums of varying colors and shapes, pickles, salad, and juices. The buffet usually ends with desserts like ice cream and gulab jamun, with paan as a palate cleanser.

Different religious sites in the city offer distinct prasads, which are often closely tied to their specific traditions. For instance, the Siddhivinayak temple is famous for its offerings of modak and boondi ladoo, while the Swami Samarth Math provides besan ladoo and mava peda. The Sai Baba Mandir is known for its zunka bhakar, and the Iskon temple is famous for its khichdi. The Mahalaxmi Mandir, on the other hand, offers coconut as a prasad. Additionally, Gurudwaras in the city offer full-fledged langars (meals), consisting of dal, roti, sabzi, rice, pickle, and kheer.

The Bhandara tradition, a community dining experience, continues to thrive among Mumbai's middle class. Over time, there have been noticeable changes in the selection of dishes and the method of distribution. Earlier, the meal consisted of simple items like papad, shrikhand, bhakri/chapati, dal rice, and a few vegetable dishes. Today, there is a trend towards including paneer dishes and desserts like jalebi and gulab jamun. The distribution method has shifted from a structured buffet arrangement to a more customary volunteer-based setup. Although the original purpose of Bhandara was to feed the least fortunate, it has evolved into a more private event in many areas, with participation restricted to locals. In some neighborhoods, Bhandara events are also organized on occasions like Ambedkar Jayanti.

The relationship between alcohol and Mumbaikars is complex, with diverse opinions existing. While some individuals refrain from drinking entirely, others, particularly in social situations, enjoy it. Beer appears to be the preferred beverage, possibly due to the warm weather. Beer sales have increased dramatically over the past few years, outpacing heavier liquors. Although Mumbai does not have a signature drink, Toddy, a palm wine, is the popular desi alcohol in the city.

Socioeconomic factors influence the choice of tobacco products, with beedis being popular among manual laborers due to affordability, smokeless tobacco products like gutka and paan masala being popular due to their low price, and chewing on them being a common practice. Mumbai is renowned for its diverse selection of paans, with popular varieties including meetha (sweet), saadha (plain), fire, banarasi, ice, chocolate, spicy, gold, and lucknowi. Among these, meetha paan stands out as the most well-liked, typically comprising grated coconut, candied fruits and nuts, gulkand (rose petal jam), saffron, cardamom, and occasionally sweetened tobacco. It is served in a betel leaf, often garnished with a cherry or tutti-frutti.

Another notable type is the fire paan, where the vendor mixes supari, gulkand, sweetened sauces, and spices with a small amount of flammable liquid, usually alcohol, into the betel leaf. Just before serving, the paan is lit, producing a brief burst of flames that quickly extinguish, leaving behind a slightly burned taste and smoky scent. Despite the dramatic presentation, the fire is extinguished before consumption, ensuring the consumer's safety.

Pav Bhaji is a popular street food from Mumbai, India, known for its taste and versatility. The dish consists of a spicy vegetable mash known as bhaji, made by boiling and mashing a mix of vegetables like potatoes, peas, carrots, and cauliflower, and cooking them with tomatoes, onions, garlic, and a blend of spices. This thick vegetable curry is served with butter-toasted pav (bread bun), creating a flavorful combination that doubles in taste when the pav is fried in butter, known as khasta pav.

The origins of pav bhaji are associated with the fast-paced life of Mumbai. It is believed that the dish was invented in the 1850s as a quick lunchtime meal for textile mill workers in Mumbai. Another popular story from the 1960s suggests that pav bhaji was born out of necessity on Dalal Street, where stock market traders would get hungry during late-night dealings with foreign markets. Local restaurants responded by preparing bhaji from leftover vegetables of the day, serving it with buttered pav as a fulfilling meal. Owing to its origins and affordability, pav bhaji is often called the "Common Man’s Food" and is as iconic to Mumbai as the Gateway of India.

Vada Pav, sometimes referred to as the "Indian Burger," is another beloved street food from Maharashtra. It consists of a vada (deep-fried potato mash)  placed inside a pav and typically served with various chutneys like dry garlic or coconut garlic chutney with a side of fried green chillies. The creation of Vada Pav is credited to Ashok Vaidya, a street vendor who operated outside Dadar train station in Mumbai during the 1960s. Inspired by the socio-political environment of the time, Vaidya sought to provide a cheap, portable, and filling snack for the working class, particularly the protestors and union workers involved in the textile mill strikes. Vada Pav quickly gained popularity, symbolizing the ingenuity and spirit of Mumbai, and remains a staple snack across the region.

When the East India Company took over administration of Bombay in 1668 from the British Crown, Mumbai witnessed an influx of Parsis, a Zoroastrian community known for their keen eye for business opportunities. Many Parsis found employment in shipbuilding and other heavy industries, making Mumbai their new home. Patra ni macchi is a prime example of Parsi cuisine's unique blend of influences and tells a story of the Parsi community's integration into Indian life. Inspired by the Middle Eastern dish "dolmeh" (steamed meat wrapped in vine leaves), the Parsis adapted the recipe using readily available ingredients from their new surroundings. Banana leaves replaced vine leaves, while the spice mix incorporated fresh flavors like mint, cilantro, and garlic. Coconut, a staple in South Indian cuisine, added richness to the dish. The Parsis' time spent in Gujarat, known for its sweet and savory dishes, is reflected in Patra ni macchi's subtle sweetness.

Following the British takeover of Bombay from the Portuguese in 1661, Christians from across India migrated to the newly acquired islands. To differentiate themselves from the newcomers, the original inhabitants adopted the term "East Indian." East Indian cuisine is a delightful fusion of European, primarily Portuguese, and local Maharashtrian flavors. This unique blend reflects their history and cultural exchange. Dishes incorporate European techniques and ingredients alongside fresh produce and cooking methods from the Konkan coast of Maharashtra.

Fugeas, also known as "balloon bread," are airy, deep-fried dough balls resembling clouds and share similarities with Portuguese beignets. The use of fermented yeast dough speaks to the Portuguese influence, while the inclusion of coconut milk, a staple in coastal Maharashtra, adds a local touch. Sorpotel, a rich and flavorful stew, beautifully complements the sweet fugeas. Made with pork meat, blood, and liver, simmered in a masala-infused broth with a hint of vinegar, this dish shares similarities with the Goan Xacuti. However, the East Indian version highlights their distinct culinary identity through the use of specific spices and cooking techniques.

Pathare Prabhus, a Hindu community, migrated from Rajasthan to Gujarat and subsequently to Maharashtra. In the 13th century, they finally settled in Mumbai City and brought along a unique cuisine. The cuisine is a blend of Maharashtrian, Gujarati, and Konkan influences and is known for its unique flavors and spices. One of the most popular dishes in Pathare Prabhu cuisine is the patodi rassa, which is a spicy curry made with gram flour and a variety of spices. Another popular dish is the bombil fry, which is a crispy fried dish made with Bombay duck, a type of fish found in the waters around Mumbai. Pathare Prabhu cuisine also has a variety of vegetarian dishes, such as the gavar bhaji, which is a stir-fried vegetable dish made with cluster beans and coconut.

Berry Pulao is a unique and flavorful dish that bears resemblance to Biryani. It is prepared using a combination of cranberries, cashews, and saffron, which gives it a distinct taste and aroma. Originating from Iran, the recipe was adapted in India by incorporating local spices, making it a fusion of international and regional flavors.

In a city like Mumbai, with something for everyone, people of all ages go out. Over years, people find their addas, their go-to spots to eat and hangout. These are usually eateries with the perfect combination of ambience, affordability, taste, and a sense of nostalgia.

Crawford Market, named after Arthur Crawford, the first Municipal Commissioner of Mumbai, is a historic market that showcases the city's unique blend of architectural styles, including Flemish and Norman. Vendors can be found selling a range of items, including scarves, table mats, and party supplies. Each lane is dedicated to specific products, such as stationery, perfume, fruits, vegetables, and spices. Additionally, the market is renowned for its fresh seafood and diverse street food options, making it a popular destination for locals and tourists alike. Nagdevi Street, located opposite the market, is a popular destination for meat lovers, offering a range of grilled kebabs and payas cooked in massive steel furnaces. Some of the must-try items on Nagdevi Street include seekh kebabs, nalli nihari, and halisa (a vegetarian meal). 

Haji Ali Juice Centre has maintained its popularity over the years by serving a unique and delicious variety of custard filled with seasonal and exotic fruits, dried fruits, and milk cream. This roadside juice bar has been a staple in the area since the late 1930s, offering a consistent and satisfying experience to its customers.

Perched along the coast, this location in Dadar offers stunning views of the Sealink and breathtaking sunsets. It's a popular spot for college students, but also caters to a wider audience. Food vendors line the area, tempting passersby with sweet treats and savory snacks. Visitors can explore a variety of dining options, from grabbing a quick bite from nearby restaurants or street stalls to picnicking in the park's lush greenery and enjoying a stroll.

Sunlight Bar along with others like Kitkat and Jyoti's has become a haven for college students seeking a relaxed and affordable hangout compared to more crowded and expensive spots. The bar's charm is further enhanced by its vintage jukebox. For a mere ten rupees, patrons can select a song and add a touch of nostalgia to their evening.

Marine lines Khau Galli is a street frequented by students and office goers alike. The most popular items sold here are buttery pav bhaji at Lenin Pav Bhaji Centre and the dahi puri at Lalit Bhel Stall. The entire street is filled with vendors selling shawarma, momo, fried rice, crispy dosas of different variations such as mayo, cheese, and szechuan sauce. Another popular galli is the Mohammad Ali Road, a haven for non-vegetarian street food enthusiasts. Located near Minara Masjid in Marine Lines, this food center is always packed with hungry foodies. The variety of options is truly impressive, ranging from creamy phirnis, a sweet milk pudding, and fluffy naans, to fiery tikkas, kebabs, and shawarmas. During Ramadan, the festive atmosphere reaches a fever pitch as families and friends gather to break their fast here. Mohammad Ali Road is also renowned for its restaurants specializing in dishes like Nalli Nihari, a slow-cooked dish of shank meat and bone marrow, and Haleem, a hearty stew made with meat, lentils, and wheat.

Cafe Leopold, founded by the Parsi community in Mumbai in 1871, has undergone significant transformations from its origins as a cooking oil store, general store, and pharmacy to its current status as an iconic cafe run by the Jehani family. The cafe bears the name Rhyton after King Leopold of Belgium and features the Achaemenid Persian Lion in its emblem, paying homage to its Zoroastrian roots.

In 2008, Cafe Leopold was one of the targets hit during the Mumbai attacks, witnessing a tragic event that shook the city. Despite the devastation, the cafe reopened within four days, serving as a powerful symbol of Mumbai's resilience in the face of loss. The cafe still bears visible scars from the attack, as the bullet holes can still be observed on the walls.

Originally an Irani cafe, a type of eatery common in Mumbai and established by the Zoroastrian community from Iran, Cafe Mondegar (1932) has evolved into a popular destination for both residents and tourists. The cafe's history is intertwined with that of Mumbai itself. Once situated within the lobby of the Apollo Hotel, it has since expanded into a full-fledged restaurant. In the 1990s, the walls of Cafe Mondegar were decorated with murals by the Goan cartoonist Mario Miranda, adding a whimsical touch to the cafe's ambiance. These murals depict scenes of Mumbai life and have become a signature feature of the establishment. The Yazdegardi family continues to own and operate Cafe Mondegar. The cafe's menu features a diverse selection of dishes, catering to a wide range of palates. From continental and Indian cuisine to Goan specialties and classic breakfast fare, there is something to suit every taste. Popular menu items include roast beef, fluffy omelets, king prawns, and refreshing beverages like draft beer and cold coffee.

Established in 1940, Cafe Madras is a family-run establishment renowned for its South Indian cuisine, particularly its idlis and dosas. Founded by Gopal Purshottam Kamath in Matunga, Mumbai, it has grown from a humble eatery to a well-established restaurant over the years. In 1968, the restaurant formalized its partnership and expanded by taking over the Gopalkrishna Hindu Hotel, becoming part of GP Kamath & Co. Despite these changes, Cafe Madras has remained a local favorite, known for its consistent quality and traditional South Indian fare. The restaurant has successfully navigated changes in demographics and tastes over the years, while staying true to its South Indian roots.

K Rustom’s Ice Cream is a cherished landmark established in 1953 by Khodabux Rustom Irani. K Rustom's began as a small sundries shop on the beach, but the founder, Khodabux Rustom Irani, quickly transformed it into a popular ice cream parlor. The shop has remained a family-run business and has been passed down through generations.

K Rustom's offers a variety of ice cream flavors, including both classic favorites like chocolate and vanilla and more unique options like rum and raisin, mango lassi, and even paan. The parlor is known for its use of high-quality ingredients and traditional ice cream making techniques. They also source special wafers that complement their ice cream flavors. In 2022, K Rustom's faced a court battle against the Cricket Club of Mumbai that threatened their location, but the ruling was ultimately overturned, allowing them to continue serving their customers.

Frequented by celebrities like Lata Mangeshkar and Raj Kapoor and college students alike, Gaylord has something for everyone. The elegant decor, featuring silk panels, mezzanine floors, and vintage artwork, creates a timeless atmosphere. It boasts a lively atmosphere with live music and a menu featuring continental, Mughlai, and Turkish delicacies. Paneer tikka, macaroons, and chicken a la kiev are some of the signature dishes here.

In Mumbai city district, there are several examples of worker cooperatives acting as food self-help groups (SHGs) that play a crucial role in empowering individuals, especially women, by providing them with opportunities for economic independence and skill development in the food industry. One such example is “The Dabbawala Foundation,” which is a cooperative of lunchbox delivery men known as dabbawalas. These dabbawalas form self-help groups to collectively manage their operations, ensuring the timely delivery of home-cooked meals to office workers across the city. Another example is “The Papadum Express,” a women-led self-help group that produces and sells homemade papads and pickles. By forming self-help groups, individuals can pool their resources, share knowledge, and access markets more effectively, ultimately contributing to their socio-economic empowerment and community development.